Temple: Enmeiji – people tried to steal the bell but it would shout “home home” and they’d get scared and run off.

Dedication: I met Jason in Wellington. We had a very similar upbringing and talked a lot about how it had shaped us. He was thinking of some major life changes, including a possible move to Melbourne so I’m thinking of you today.

Back on the road. This temple feels like the epitome of a commercial temple on the route. All the basics covered, vending machine on the temple grounds, lay person in the signing office watching soaps while she scribbles out the stamp for the queue of pilgrims ¥300.

I don’t mind that at all. I admire the way Japan has integrated religion and commerce. People throw spare change into shrine boxes all the time and it gives them the money to keep going in a profit driven world. It can get in the way sometimes but mostly it’s a good way of running the temples.