Temple: Negoroji – a ‘devil cow’ used to torment the local people here but was shot by an expert archer who got a statue for his efforts. The temple is beautiful and the monk who signed my book was really great.

Dedication: Shelia is a missionary in Rwanda and a friend of my parents. I remember her telling us about the Tutsis and Hutus a long time before the genocide. She is incredibly dedicated and cares a lot about people and was always an inspiration to me.

Picture: John got the most amazing osettai, an owl that will ward off difficulties. It has a little bell inside.

I ran into John again on the path between these two temples. It’s an old, long-maintained path that was great to walk even in the rain. It’s raining tonight but close to the temple is a lovely enclosed hut with electricity, water and, even better, a big jar of sweets donated by local kids. I know I say it a lot but: amazing. I’m so grateful.