Temple: Hashikuraji – it’s a bangai temple and an odd mix of Shinto shrine and Buddhist temple. It’s set on a mountain and spread out with lots of buildings. The main hall has two big masks of what I assume are Shinto gods and the Daishido has a Shinto-style bell.

Dedication: I worked with Leyla for a year while I was doing data entry at Barclays. She nicknamed me Speedy and told me to do 75% of my work in the morning so we could get drunk at lunchtime. Having walked 25km this morning this seemed like a good temple to remember her at. Though with coffee, not booze. I hope you’re well Leyla.

I slept in an open hut last night after a fairly long day on the road. About ten minutes after I arrived a woman appeared. She was Sara from Germany, doing the pilgrimage in between a working holiday in Australia and New Zealand. She was walking and sleeping outside, mainly in stations. We chatted and ate and talked to some locals who stopped by then made camp. It was next to a road so pretty noisy but comfortable enough.