Temple: Onzanji – this temple was off limits to women. After his mother wanted to visit Kukai successfully performed a 17 day esoteric ritual to remove the restriction. Go Kukai.

Dedication: Chloe is a wonderful person to know. We met at university and she’s very sharp, adventurous and kind-hearted along with it. I thought you’d appreciate this temples legend Chlo, so I’m saying the sutras here for you. She makes up a triptych with Laura, a triforce maybe. I also prayed at an Inari shine on the way from the previous temple on your behalf Chloe. Inari is one of the Shinto Kami who is clever enough to have transcended gender.

Picture: Sunrise over the rice fields.

I slept really well and got going by 5.30 to walk with the sunrise. I arrived at Onzanji ten minutes or so before they opened so just sat enjoying the atmosphere. I have little doubt by 3pm my feet will be killing me and I’ll be wondering why on earth I’m doing this again. It’s the permanent cycle and knowing it’s going to happen doesn’t stop it being agony each day. Still at least tomorrow morning I’ll be all bouncy and looking forward to the day.