Temple: Zentsuji – birthplace of Kukai and one of the three most important temples on the trail – it’s massive, spread over two sites and you can get pretty close to the alters. It’s also very busy with lots of people who aren’t pilgrims coming here to worship.

Dedication: Rob is a friend from Manchester who was at the uni there at the same time as Sean and Alun. He helped me out a lot when I needed it and I lived in his house for a while one holiday (don’t mention the smoked salmon). He’s another friend who it’s always really easy to reconnect with when I see him. I’m thinking of you today Rob.

Picture: these little honesty stalls were all over the first half of the pilgrimage but it’s been a while since I saw one. Today I saw ones selling orange fruit, green beans and garlic.

I’ve ran into John again and the temple have details of a house you can stay in for free. A bed, some quiet and a place with no mosquitos sounds like what I need tonight.