Temple: Dainichiji – it’s opposite a large shrine that is looked after by the temple. When I arrived at 6am the shrine priest was drumming away. A monk was chanting in the Daishi hall of the temple opposite for a pleasing juxtaposition.

Dedication: I don’t remember the first time I met Daniel at all. The second time I was going to Wales on a camping trip organised by Sam where I instantly liked him. We’ve been leading weirdly parallel lives with both of us having split up with long term partners and training in therapy or analysis. He’s a good friend and I’m glad to know him.

This temple has a statue of Vairocana, or Diainichi Nyorai as the Shingon Buddhists call her, that Kukai himself carved. I had a fairly rough night sleeping out before arriving here but a cup of tea at the 7-eleven and I felt ready for the day. While I was waiting for the temple to open an old woman doing the pilgrimage in reverse gave me an orange to eat and gave me some hints about good places to stay.